Hatch release switch removed

Repair or Replace Fiesta Mk7 Hatch Release Button


The Mk7 Fiesta is a very nice car, but it has some minor design flaws. One common problem is the hatchback release button. It is located directly below the rear wiper, which operates through a hole in the tailgate. Unfortunately this hole lets in water and muck, which then runs down and collects around the switch. Eventually water makes its way in and corrodes the contacts.

Symptoms of this can be confusing. In the case of my wife’s car it started releasing the tailgate every time you started the engine. or sometimes when it stopped. I’m not sure if this was a short caused by the vibration or a voltage issue, but repairing the switch cured it either way.

Before you start, please understand that any work carried out is entirely at your own risk. if in doubt consult a professional.

The first step is to remove the faulty switch. I actually found a guide on the internet that told people to strip the inside trim from the tailgate and remove the wiper motor to access it. Don’t do this, it’s just plain silly! The switch clips in from the outside, and can be easily pried out. It’s best to do it with the tailgate open, as everything is at eye level. Removing the number plate may help, as it’s a tight fit. I managed without. Use something wide and thin to prise it out, working at one side then the other in small steps, taking care not to scratch the paintwork.

Hatch release switch removed

This picture shows the location after the switch has been removed and unplugged. The plug was nice and clean inside, which was a relief. As you can see by all the gathered dirt, there was a lot of mess around the switch.

The switch is in two halves, held together by six small phillips screws. Undo these and inspect it. Mine was wet, and the both springs were corroded, one broke in half as I opened the switch. If it isn’t too badly damaged then you can dry it out, give it a good clean with an electrical cleaning spray, followed by a quick squirt of WD-40 to prevent future water penetration.

Switch in two pieces

If the switch is badly damaged, like mine was (it still works after repair, but doesn’t feel right when you use it) then it’s probably best to order a replacement. The part number is shown below:

Part No.

The code on mine was 6M51-19B514-AC

The two letters at the end are a revision code, so may vary depending on the age of the car. The part number and switch is also shared with the Mk2 Focus, C-Max and Mk3 Mondeo, so if you want a cheap repair then you may be able to find one at a breaker’s yard. The new switch isn’t expensive. At the time of writing it cost about £34 inc VAT and delivery from this Ford Dealership, or can be found new or used on.

Replace Stereo Display Screen Mk7 Fiesta


The following is a guide to replacing the LCD display screen in the dashboard of Mk7 Ford Fiestas. The images correspond to an early (2008-2012) pre-facelift model, but as far as I know the later ones are fitted in the same way. Be sure to get the right part number, as there are several different versions of the display, which may or may not be compatible. The most basic has two lines of text. I have heard that it’s possible to replace this type with the full matrix display, but don’t take my word on it, I haven’t tried it!

Take care when using tools in your car, the soft touch surfaces are easily damaged. Any work carried out is at your own risk. If in doubt stop and consult a professional.

First you need to carefully pry up the plastic trim piece that surrounds the screen. The best things to use are plastic pry tools, as these shouldn’t scratch anything. Alternatively you can use flat bladed screwdrivers. There are no screws to undo, it simply clips in. Start at the front edge, nearest the windscreen. The clips are very tight, so a strong pull is needed, but being careful not to crack the trim.

Faulty Screen

Here I’ve turned the trim panel upside down so you can see where the clips are. There are no clips at the CD player end, it simply hooks into the top of the fascia panel.

Trim panel clips

Once you’ve removed the trim piece the screen is exposed.

Exposed screen

Undo the two Torx screws marked below and carefully lift it out.

Screw locations

Now gently turn the screen over and disconnect the multiplug from the back of the screen unit. There is no need to unclip the wiring from the dashboard, it is just long enough.


Installation of the new screen is simply the reverse of the process, plug in the multiplug, sit the screen in place and replace the two Torx screws. It’s a good idea to test it at this stage before replacing the trim piece. Once you’re happy that everything is working, simply press the trim panel back into place. The Ford part number for the screen I installed was 8A6T-18B955-BL, this is the orange matrix display. So far as I can tell the two line display has a two letter code starting with A at the end. There are also white versions, as fitted to cars with Sony stereo systems, and blue ones on cars from 2012 onwards (facelift model). Apparently the white and orange ones are interchangeable, but the blue ones are not compatible. Again, I haven’t tried it, so don’t assume this is correct! I got my screen from a breaker’s yard via eBay.

Re-gas Fiesta Mk7 Air Conditioning


Welcome to the first in a series of How-to guides. Unlike most of the geeky articles I write, these will be about car related DIY, which is a small hobby of mine. This first one comes about because I was looking on the internet for information about the Fiesta Mk7 (2008-2017) A/C system, but there was nothing useful out there.

Ever noticed that your air conditioning is a bit slow to cool down, or maybe it isn’t as cold as it once was? The chances are that you have a slight leak in the system, and some of the refrigerant has escaped. The main reason for this is lack of use. The refrigerant contains lubricating oils that keeps the seals supple and working. If the refrigerant isn’t kept moving through the pipes from time to time then there is chance for the seals to dry out and shrink slightly, which is how you get the leaks.

The easiest way to avoid this is to run the system for about 10 minutes or so, at least once a week, even in winter. Some people recommend leaving it on all the time, but that seems unnecessary to me, as well as a waste of fuel and a drain on the car’s power.

If your A/C doesn’t get cold at all then this guide probably won’t help, your system may need repair, or at the very least completely refilling by a professional. The same applies if it won’t switch on. If when you turn the A/C on you hear a click but no change in engine note then it means the compressor isn’t working properly. If your system is working but not very effectively, read on…

A word of warning. Hot engines, compressed gas and moving parts can all cause injury or damage. Follow these instructions at your own risk, and if in any doubt consult a professional technician.

First you will need a can of DIY refrigerant like this one. When I got mine (many years ago) it came with the necessary filling hose attached. These seem to be rare/expensive nowadays, so you may also need one of these hoses that screw onto the aerosol. Have a good look at the connector you’re getting, and try and get one with a 90 degree connector, rather than a straight one. The reason for this is that the pipe you need to plug into is located very close to the panel above it, and is difficult (but not impossible) to connect to with a straight fitting.

Once you’ve got your can of refrigerant/sealer/oil mixture and attached the hose you will need to get the stuff into your A/C system. Open the bonnet of the car and you will find the Low Pressure Service Point just below the rear edge of the bonnet. The car shown is a 1.6 TDCi, other engines may have the fill point in slightly different positions.


Here is the connection point close up, it’s located immediately behind the brake fluid reservoir. The service point is protected by a black screw on cap.

A/C Fill point

Remove the black dust cap from the service point, then carefully connect the filling hose to it. You need to lift the collar on the connector, slide it over the service point then release the collar. It can be quite fiddly, as space is limited. Once connected make sure that the can is in a safe place, or get someone to hold it, as you now need to start the engine, open the windows and switch on the A/C or climate control. Set the temperature to the minimum. Once the compressor is running you can gradually add the refrigerant. You should hear the engine note change as the compressor clicks on and off.  If there is any sign of leak, such as a hissing sound from the pipework, then stop immediately and refer the system to a professional for repair.

Now that you’ve added some refrigerant you should very soon notice an improvement in your A/C system.